Khoisan hunter-gatherers probably lived in the Western Cape for thousands of years before the Portuguese stopped off to climb Table Mountain in 1503. The visitors didn’t stay. Already called both the Cape of Storms and the Fairest Cape, its position eventually led to the founding of a refreshment station for the Dutch East India Company in 1652. Subjugation and slavery followed – for the local Khoisan inhabitants and for Cape Malays shipped in from the East. And for nearly 200 years farms, the port and the city of Cape Town were built on their labour, while the colonial powers of Britain and Holland crossed swords at Muizenberg (1795) and Blaauwberg (1806)… until the Cape became a British colony in 1814. Thereafter slavery was abolished in 1839, the British Cape Colony established and, mostly further north, the South African War won (1901). At that date South Africa became a British Colony.

By 1910 the Union of South Africa had been formed, but after two World Wars where South Africans served, another kind of government was voted in. In 1948 DF Malan’s Afrikaner National Party government came to power and created apartheid, a new form of slavery of the most insidious kind – prescribing black people’s movement, education, employment, opportunities, relationships, lives and dreams. One long, hard-won struggle later, with tragedies such as Sharpeville (1960), the Destruction of District 6 (1966), Soweto (1976), the student riots of the 1980s and many, many lives marred or lost in its bloody wake, Nelson Mandela was finally released from Robben Island in 1990. Then negotiations with the incumbent National Party government began and on 27th April 1994 a new South Africa was born: the first democratic election elected Mandela President, heralding – at last - a South Africa truly committed to a better life for all who live in it.

The best memorial to District 6 and its role in apartheid forced removals history is the vibrant District Six Museum 5 minutes away (R15), a memorial to an eclectic inner city area that was bulldozed in the 1960s as a result of the iniquitous Group Areas Act, which moved black people out of town (though not, bizarrely, from the Bo-Kaap on the other side of town). It was that area where slaves were settled in Cape Town in the 1700s and, after the abolition of slavery at the Cape in 1834, most of the slaves continued to live there. Indeed, many of today’s residents are their direct descendants. A walk through the area is a unique cultural experience – mosques nestle side by side with colourful houses on quaint cobbled streets. The warmth of both the people and their cuisine is infectious. Curry looms large and Biesmiellah’s on Wale Street boasts the best samoosas in town. The Bo-Kaap Museum (R5) or a visit to the Noon Gun – the restaurant or the gun battery itself – completes the picture.

We will gladly find someone to guide you, via the Bo-Kaap, Slave Lodge and District 6 Museums (all within 5 mins), through the Struggle against colonial oppression to liberation. Robben Island should also be visited. But it won’t be all shadows, despite the fact that the Group Areas Act created the divided city that Cape Town remains – affecting the very house you are staying in. So know that a night in a shebeen in Gugulethu, the Galaxy or Swingers (Cape Flats venues of some cultural and musical note) is never dull. Cape Flats and Township cuisine is colourful too – and sometimes challenging (‘walkie talkie’ – chicken heads and feet – and sheep’s head are acquired tastes). Traditional Cape Malay curry and koeksisters may be more to you liking. And the ingenuity of local craftspeople can also lift the soul – seek out the tin can flowers created by Golden Nongawuza after they came to him in a dream. Do the tour, hear the stories, have a perspective.

The Iziko National Arts Gallery and Museum (R10 entry), The Slave Lodge (R10) and the Planetarium (R20) are in the Company Gardens next to the Houses of Parliament, as are the Bertram House Museum (R5), the Jewish Museum (R50) and the National Library (R0). This is Museum Mile – five minutes away. A few blocks away on Strand Street lies the charming Gold of Africa Museum (R20).Then, across from the City Hall, where Mandela met the world on his release, squats the Castle of Good Hope (R20), which was at the centre of life at the Cape for 150 years, as Cape Town grew as a city. Today it is a military museum whose courtyard houses the Kat Balcony and the excellent William Fehr Collection of period furniture and paintings. If you visit, be sure to drop in on the dungeons to meet the resident ghost. For more recent art, Cape Town’s burgeoning new Art District is quite literally down the road in Woodstock on Sir Lowry’s Road (3 minutes drive). So there’s lots to explore, rain or shine.

Between July and November each year, Southern Right and Humpback Whales cavort, mate, calve and generally entertain visitors to South Africa’s coast, particularly in the Western Cape. You can sometimes see whales off Cape Town’s Harbour Breakwater (10 mins drive then 10 mins walk: more great views of the mountain) and you’ll often see them off the more sheltered shores of False Bay in Kalk Bay or Fishhoek (35 mins). But the prime whale watching spots are Hermanus (1.5hrs) and Gansbaai (2hrs). However, whales do occur for a good 2000km along the South African coast from Doringbaai in the West to Durban in the East. You may even be lucky enough to see the rarer Sperm Whale (Moby Dick) or Blue Whale (biggest of all – up to 30m in length). Dolphins, Great White Sharks and the bizarre Sun Fish are also common all year round in and around Cape Town: you can even Shark Dive in a cage off Gansbaai to get closer to the Great White if you so desire!

In Cape Town, the Table Mountain National Park has more plant species than the whole of the UK – many of which are unique to the Western Cape. What you will see is indigenous fynbos (fine bush), with its three main plant families – the impressive, almost sculptural Proteas (the King Protea is our national flower); the daintier, prettier Ericas (or heathers) and the distinctive, reed-like Restios. Fynbos covers much of the Western Cape – 553,000 hectares – but is easiest seen close up at Kirstenbosch Gardens (15 mins drive from 01 Bridge Street), on the mountain or in one of the many magnificent nature reserves ranged across the province. Visit in the spring (Aug/Sept) and the West Coast wild flowers – blankets of colour all the way up the coast – are a must-see too. In early summer, the gem-like Disas are also a treat to track down. And as for silver trees, strelitsias and red hot pokers… Well, nature at her best!

The African Penguins in Simon’s Town are the main avian attraction in Cape Town but don’t miss the Sugarbirds and Sunbirds at Kirstenbosch or the plaintive Black Oyster Catchers along the south and west coasts (a great rehabilitation success story). Flamingoes migrate in and out too – especially to Langebaan lagoon. Then, out of town a little, there are ostriches, blue cranes and often magnificent birds of prey, including the African Fish Eagle. The ocean also often offers seals cavorting in the waves – or barking soulfully on shore. And on four legs, you’ll see a variety of buck from graceful Impala to imperious Eland and Bontebok (another success story). And in De Hoop and other Western Cape reserves you’ll also see Cape Mountain Zebra. Caracals and Mongeese are sometimes seen and the Cape Leopard mostly only heard. Baboons and dassies, though, abound: but please do NOT feed!

Towering over the city and right above 01 Bridge Street, the mountain is visible from 200km out at sea and is sometimes covered with clouds – we call it the tablecloth. Table Mountain is home to more than 1,470 species of plant – more than in the entire United Kingdom. 200 of them are found nowhere else. Fifteen minutes drive from 01 Bridge Street is the spectacular Table Mountain Cableway, which revolves you to the top with its restaurant and spectacular views of Cape Town. That’s the easy way. For the more energetic, there are a number of walks on or up the mountain, ranging from easy to adventurous: 2.5 steep hours up is the quickest so it’s not a stroll. Either way, cameras are compulsory, especially at sunset. Table Mountain also offers rock climbing routes at various grades – as well as the opportunity, for the brave, to abseil off it. It’s no wonder it’s a Top Ten Western Cape attraction.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens, 15 minutes’ drive from 01 Bridge Street in the Cape Town suburb of Newlands, is entirely indigenous and is home to more than 8,500 plant species. Another Top Ten Western Cape Attraction, this splendid 528 hectare botanical garden was established nearly a century ago in 1913. Today it showcases the full splendour of the unique Cape Floristic Kingdom and its varied fynbos (fine bush). There’s also an impressive cycad collection and a striking array of Zimbabwean stone sculptures. In addition, more than 150 bird species visit the gardens: the ubiquitously comic Guinea Fowl offer hours of fun. Take a picnic or enjoy a meal at one of the restaurants. In summer there are sunset concerts on Sunday afternoons and the annual New Year’s Eve party is always quite an event. You can also climb the Mountain from here – the best and most shaded is Skeleton Gorge with its woody ravines and ladders.

01 Bridge Street is just 15 minutes from the best beaches in Cape Town for sundowners, complete with Table Mountain backdrops: classy Camp’s Bay and Clifton. Cocktails are compulsory while watching the sun drop gently into the Atlantic… either from the beach or one of the many beachfront bars. More remote Atlantic beaches include surfer’s paradise Llandudno and scenically stunning Sandy Bay (25 mins: clothes optional). This rugged coast is also great for diving and sailing; and, further up the Western Seaboard, colourful kite surfers flock to Dolphin Beach. Active in another way is the Sea Point Promenade, site of a daily seaside stroll for an eclectic mix of people. The other side of the Peninsula, however, has warmer, safer swimming beaches like Fishhoek and Muizenberg (30/35 mins). Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town is also famous for its penguins (45 mins). But for real wild ocean action, nothing beats cliff-backed Diaz Beach – facing south to Antarctica from Cape Point (90 mins).

Guided tours of the city start at Cape Town Tourism in the CBD but you can wander the shops, museums and Company Gardens yourself – Greenmarket Square, Long Street, Bo Kaap, Museum Mile (1/2 day), the Gold Museum. The Waterfront will take up half a day as well – 470 stores and stalls plus the Aquarium and access to Robben Island and the prison where Mandela and many others were held (another 1/2 day). For a complete history of the Western Cape’s struggle past, a tour of the townships, Cape Flats and District 6 is essential (1/2 day). And you can easily spend half a day going up the mountain. Then there’s the Peninsula Tour (essential scenic drive via Chapman’s Peak, if it’s open, plus wild and windy Cape Point and those cute penguins at Simon’s Town: 1 day). The Winelands are also popular (see Taste section) and nearby Spier’s varied attractions (cheetahs included) are also good for children (1 day).

Start a day trip from 01 Bridge Street in Blaauwberg (20 mins), from where you get the best views of Table Mountain and Cape Town. Try Café Blaauwberg or Ons Huisie for breakfast. Then take the R27 coast road to Darling (45 mins), home to a unique cabaret dame, Presidential candidate extraordinaire Tannie Evita Bezuidenhout – a show is a must and the venue’s traditional Boerekos worth investigating too. Or try Darling’s wine route, a small but rising star. It borders the Swartland wine route, which takes in the quaint village of Riebeek Kasteel – olives, wine and port their speciality – and after that, you can head back to the West Coast National Park at Langebaan – fabulous spring flowers (Aug to Oct) and flocks of pink flamingoes on a spectacular lagoon with safe warm swimming, sailing and windsurfing. Time it right and you can eat on the beach at the famous Strandloper restaurant: seafood their speciality, of course!

Head for the mountains up the N2 and take the R44 coastal road to Hermanus via Betty’s Bay – on the way look out for dolphins and the recently upgraded Harold Porter Botanical Garden (tea and/or a beautiful fynbos walk). Then on to the Hemel en Arde (Heaven and Earth) valley for some of the Western Cape’s best wines – white and red. A little further on, take Rotary Way above Hermanus for matchless views of the coastline – and whales (in season July to Nov). Down at the Old Harbour, the world’s only Whale Crier will tell you exactly where to see them – usually along the fine 10km coastal cliff path, which winds its way between beautiful beaches to lagoon-backed blue flag Grotto beach. If there’s time, you can head on to sleepy Stanford, with its boutique brewery, cheesery and more fine wineries. Then it’s back to the N2 via the Overberg wheatfields and Caledon (drop in for a gamble and a hot-spring heated dip at the Casino & Spa, if you dare…)

Choose from: golf, running, rollerblading, J-boarding, cycling, climbing, riding, cricket, rugby, tennis plus the more extreme abseiling (off Table Mountain, if you wish), bungee-jumping, canoeing, sailing, diving, kite-surfing, kloofing (in Suicide Gorge: enough said…), paragliding and, of course, good ol’ surfing. Just keep an eye out for Charlize the Great White… Alternatively, there are hundreds of spectacular hikes in and around Cape Town for those who want to get closer to nature on land… The main Western Cape events include the Cape to Rio/Bahia Yacht Race (Jan), the J&B Met Horse Race (Feb), the 109km Argus Cycle Tour (Mar), the Downhill Extreme Street Luge Event (Mar), The 56km 2 Oceans Ultra-Marathon (Apr), the Berg River Canoe Marathon (July) and the 80km Big Walk (Nov) – and there’s always Cricket, Rugby or Football to watch at Newlands or Green Point… the British Lions Rugby tour in 2009, the Soccer World Cup in 2010. Choices, choices!

With seasons reversed for northern visitors, Cape Town’s usually dry and often hot summers provide welcome respite from chilly northern winters – for migrating birds as well. And the unique Cape Floristic Kingdom is at its best as well: proteas, ericas and restios bloom in summer – fynbos is water-wise by design. Come autumn and the ancient oaks and myriad vines fade to crimson before the green season sets in – our winters can be wet though seldom very cold. The Cape’s Fireside Route is worth a look if the weather is a little inclement. The bonus is that the whales arrive in July and continue romancing and calving till November, by which time Spring has come and gone, along with one of the Western Cape’s most memorable natural displays – carpets of multi-coloured flowers transform meadows each spring up the West Coast to Namaqualand for 200 kms or so (Aug/Sept). If you’re here, head for them and their accompanying flower shows – as well as the budding Cape Town Flower Show (Oct).

Two main theatres offer a range of experiences from stand-up comedy to sit-tight drama. The Baxter Theatre, part of the University of Cape Town (10 mins), beats Artscape for must-see shows for now, barring dance and opera from Artscape’s unmissable Jazzart Dance Theatre and Cape Town Opera. The New Space Theatre and Theatre on the Bay are also worth a look. For cabaret, try On Broadway in Shortmarket – home to Mince, the best drag show in town (5 mins). Equally close are the Little and Intimate Theatres – always vibrant. Cape Town is also blessed with cinemas – 16 in all, including four art cinemas. In summer, across the Cape, sunset concerts abound – at Kirstenbosch in Cape Town and at Oude Libertas and Spier near Stellenbosch (1 hr). Classical? The CTSO plays regularly at the City Hall. In January Coons croon and Afro-jazz peaks at the International Jazz Festival in March. Finally, Design Indaba (Feb) and Cape Town Fashion Week (Aug) are essential dates for the creative glitterati. See press for details!

The 109km Cape Town Pick n Pay Argus Cycle Tour is the major highlight on the local cycling calendar – as is the 56 km Two Oceans Ultra-Marathon for runners. The Argus is an event for all to enjoy, amateur and professional alike. Up to 35 000 entries either race to compete against the clock or simply enjoy the great atmosphere created by the encouraging crowds all along the route. Both races start in Cape Town and wind along the beautiful peninsula and back to carnival-like finishes. The professionals finish the Argus Cycle Tour in about 2.5 hours and the Two Oceans Ultra-Marathon in just over 3 hours. Amateurs take a few hours longer…

The Cape Coons Carnival was started by the slaves who greeted the end of slavery (1 December 1834) with fireworks and street parades. Today crowds lining the streets are entertained with boisterous dancing and singing: indeed, the Carnival is just the start of an extensive Singing Competition that carries on for several weeks. The Cape Malay Choir Competition also takes place at the Good Hope Centre in the first part of the year, while the Cape Town Festival brings local dance, drama, music and art into the City for all to enjoy. Don’t miss Night Vision (March), when the streets of Downtown Cape Town are reclaimed, art galleries stay open till late, entertainment stages take over Long Street and the party goes on all night… You should also check out the Spier Summer Festival, always eclectic and intriguing.

The Design Indaba Conference (Feb) attracts global design greats – architects, artists, designers, even chefs (Ferran Adría of elBulli featured this year) – and has most certainly put South Africa on the creative map. Book early. Or visit the Design Indaba Expo (Feb) at the Convention Centre and witness South Africa’s fashion and design excellence live – maybe even take some home… At the end of March live jazz is the theme – again international stars like Randy Crawford and Manu Dibango mingle with world class local sounds to create something hip, happening and harmonious. This year’s line-up ranged from hip hop midwife Mos Def to jazz divas Dianne Reeves and SIbongile Khumalo, aided and abetted by Shakatak, the Stylistics and the two Kyles (Eastwood and Shepherd). They call it ‘Africa’s Grandest Gathering’. Not to be missed.